Shooting 50 ISO slide film

So I'm going to shoot some 35mm Velvia 50 at Pebble Beach Golf Course,
various spots on 17 Mile Drive, the Golden Gate and some other Nor Cal
landmarks. I'm going to put the brand spanking new D2X up against the
slide film just for the halibut. Last time I shot low ISO slide film,
seems everything was just a touch underexposed even though I used
evaluative/matrix metering and aperture priority in broad daylight; the
times of day I will be shooting will primarily be dusk and possibly
very early morning. Any rules of thumb for exposing with 50 ISO slide
film I should be aware of? Tips/suggestions for portraiture with that
film, aside from bracketing and wasting 1/3 of a $5 roll of film?
Actually, that's pretty "affordable" for that film...yay digi!
Thx,
Ben

Kombi45@yahoo.com

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

I made mine in the mid 50s. 1938/1939 was a mite early for me.
Jim


Jim

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

"Greg Campbell" <ggeonerdd@ccoxx.nnett> wrote
There is a lot of that here:
http://www.clarkvision.com/index.html


Nicholas O. Lindan

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

If complete, I'd like to see your film results, and comparison to the
DSLR pics. Have I missed it on another thread/forum?
Thanks
-Greg


Greg Campbell

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

"Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreelunchVideotron.ca> wrote
Far, far away. To someplace it may never go.
Glacier National park with a Sinar, a Sironar and a box of
Ektachrome.


Nicholas O. Lindan

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

"Jim" <jim-norris@sbcglobal.net> wrote
Ah, the _original_ original:
http://webapp1.dlib.indiana.edu/collections/cushman/full/red/P01452.jpg
More the magenta colors, wouldn't you say. Kodak hadn't quite figured
things
out in the first year of processing - 1938/39.
Kodachrome: Not as good as it used to be, and it never was.


Nicholas O. Lindan

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

I can't see the original post from Kombi, but a few points:
Metering is indeed key and understanding the camera meter and the film
will yield the right results. Velvia is not very forgiving of metering
errors, but does reward when well exposed.
Use the spot meter mode of the camera (or a separate spot meter).
Locate those highlights and expose them at +1 2/3 to +2. Once you
locate your highlights (and how you will expose them), survey the
shaddows and dark areas of the scene. Anything at -1 2/3 or lower
(maybe to -2) will record black. So sometimes you have to let
highlights get really burned to suck up a little more shaddow detail...
this is no big deal as long as you keep the burned areas relatively small.
On slightly underexposed slides, colors can be especially rich. So a
careful choice of composition to use really saturated colors can pay off
on the low side.
End of day: consider an ND grad filter to get greater scene latitude.
(eg: beachside)
For scanning, esp. on 12 bit or less per color scanners, you may want to
add another 1/3 stop of exposure to "thin" the slide out for scanning.
For more recent 14/16 bit per color (42 - 48 bit scanners) this is less
of a concern.
Polarizer: Not recomended below 50mm or so unless the composition
really constrains the sky view. With a pol, the color graduation over
more than about 45° of sky becomes drastic.
Portraiture: Velvia is too red on skin tones, esp. in the "magic"
hours. Use Sensia/Astia/Provia or better yet, Kodak Portra 160NC or VC
(negative film) rated at 100.
I recently shot several rolls of Velvia 100 and 100F (and Kodak E100G
too) in 120 format in Colorado and Utah. Blows digital away.
Cheers,
Alan
--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.


Alan Browne

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

Always happy to show my 1956 Kodachrome 64 scanned on a HP S20.
http://www.fototime.com/3A548A515C8B19C/orig.jpg
--
Frank ess


Frank ess

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

K64 is nice, but what I really miss are the blue colors of the original
Kodachrome.. They changed the color balance when they introduced Kodachrome
II (now known as K25) around 1960.
Jim


Jim

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

On 2006-07-17 18:36:23 -0400, kombi45@yahoo.com said:
Yeah, 50 is kinda slow - treat yourself to some speed
and shoot Kodachrome64. Velvia tends to saturate
colors easily - really badly with greens and somewhat
badly with reds. This may make for a lush golf
course but color subtlety goes out the window.
Kodachrome is superb for color rendition and has
no color bias.
If you are going to scan the slides most scanners
don't do well with Kodachrome because the absorption
wavelengths of the color dyes are different from the
wavelengths of the color dyes used in Ektachromes.
The three color signals from a Kodachrome slide
can 'overlap' when read by the scanner. There
are exceptions: the cheap/old HP PhotoSmart S20
scanner does a good job with Kodachrome. And hardware
ICE doesn't work with Kodachrome.
Anyway, slides are meant to be PROJECTED not scanned
or peered at through a loop. Compare a projected
image from the D2X to the projected image from
a Kodachrome...
Slides were used by pros because in the old days
slides made much better separations for commercial
printing.
I would shoot a roll of varied subjects at various ASAs.
Pick the one you like. In slides, like prints, some
like them light, some like them dark.
Slide film can tolerate slight underexposure errors
but doesn't handle overexposure at all well: the film
goes completely blank, this is much worse than having
a black spot in the shadows. This behavior is just
the inverse of negative film where the rule is 'when in
doubt - overexpose'.
Slight underexposure is often the norm with Kodachrome
because the colors seem a bit more saturated. Kodachrome64
shot at 80 (or 100) with a polarizer is/was the
formula for red barns with autumn leaves in New England.
Kodak goes around Vermont putting up red faux-ramshackle
barns every August -- in time for color season.
Then Pebble Beach is too far north, the Monterey
Aquarium is about 20 miles to the south.


Nicholas O. Lindan

Re: Shooting 50 ISO slide film

On 2006-07-17 18:36:23 -0400, kombi45@yahoo.com said:
Ah those were the days.., when ASA 64 Kodachrome was considered FAST!.
My first roll of Kodachrome was ASA 25.. my fathers was ASA 10. I
find that iif I expose reversal film at the metered exposure (assuming
I am metering off something that is 18% gray) then it works. Use your
meter intelegently. I also find that my N90s exposes Fuji Velvia amd
Kodak EV films just fine in the matrix mode. In fact, it rarely blows
it, which is why, when I have a one time opportunity to shoot some
event, I use it rather thatn my digitals. It has never let me down.
That camera just works!. My D70s also works when I think about it.
With digital, is so easy in the field to say to ones self.... I can fix
it later in Photoshop. I shoot ditial in raw, it takes at least 10
minutes per photo in my work flow to take a raw image and import into
Photoshop and make he necessary adjustments. This assumes a well
exposed image. My film goes into the Nikon Scanner, gets scanned in 1
minute and in 3 minutes I have a credible image in Photoshop with
basic corrections. Maybe someday, I will be faster in Photoshop... I
hope so.
--
Jim <jen....not....home..remvdots...@....yahoo


Jim

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