Pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Are you sick of looking at what you think might be a great picture,
until you look at the background and start to see harsh circles of
light, and the more you notice the obvious ones, the more you notice
there's a whole bunch more that are less obvious? No? It's just me
then. At any rate, I'm thinking of picking up a used Pentax system
including 28, 35, 50, 85, 135, 200, 300. Not necessarily all at once!
What's the most durable, best built pentax available, either auto or
manual focus, which includes mirror lockup and preferably a spot meter?
What lenses have the best bokeh and are considered sharp as well? I
know there's at least two people here who shoot pentax for the
glass--Bandicoot and TP. Hope to hear from them on this issue in
particular, but anybody is welcome to chime in, of course.

Niceparking@gmail.com


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Thank you, Helen, for the kind words.


Tony Polson


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

I should have been more clear on what I was replying about:
I saw a used lens in a camera shop and noticed the yellowing too. I was
wondering what that was. Makes sense now.
Helen


Helensilverburg@hotmail.com


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

It is not possible to directly compare human vision to a photo, because
humans do not see an entire scene all at one time. Our eyes rapidly shift
from one point to another, while our brain "stitches" all the individual
views together and gives us the impression that we are viewing everything
all at once.
That having been said, the question is what makes a lens "normal."
A normal lens creates images where the spatial and size relationships
between the various objects in the frame look as they would to the human
eye.
That quality is critical to those of us that take
documentary/historical/architectural photos, where our main objective is to
record the scene for posterity in a way that it will look as closely as
possible to the way it would have been seen had the viewer actually stood
there in person.
I once shot a street scene using a 24mm lens-the only lens I had with me at
that moment. There were two buildings--a 3 story structure on one corner,
and a 10-story bank building located about a half block further back in the
distance. The apparent perspective distortion produced by the wide angle
lens resulted in a photo where the 10-story building was not even twice as
tall as the 3-story one. Anyone looking at that photo could sense
intuitively that something about it just wasn't right, even though they
might not have been able to pinpoint exactly what was wrong.
I typically use a 50mm lens to record such scenes, because that focal length
renders objects that retain their relative sizes when compared with other
objects in the scenes. My digital camera can zoom to an equivalent of 43mm,
and I normally use that focal length when shooting digital. I have found it
to be best at keeping relative size differences constant. The 50mm lens
that I use in 35mm is close enough to maintain the spatial relationships,
and the 55mm lens, while a tad on the tele side, is still acceptable.
Many photographers do not fully grasp the effects of using focal lengths
that fall beyond the normal range. While such lenses are effective at
producing special views (assuming that the photographer knows what he wants,
and understands which lens to use to achieve his desired effect) the normal
lens holds a special place for those of us whose objective is recording
scenes that are as close to reality, in terms of perspective, as possible.
I have become so dependent on my normal lenses that I often take only a
single normal lens when I take my camera out. Any "zooming" I need can be
done with my feet. Strange as it seems, I don't miss the variety of focal
lengths offered by zoom lenses, and my documentary record shots maintain a
consistency among all of them, as the same focal length was used for all the
shots. That is especially good when shooting multiple angles of the same
building or street scene. The viewer does not have to mentally adjust to
compensate for varying focal lengths used when the shots were taken, as
would typically have been the case had a zoom lens been used.


Jeremy


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Thanks Tony for a very informative post. I am very impressed!
Regards,
Helen


Helensilverburg@hotmail.com


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Tony Polson <tp@nospam.co.uk> wrote in
Do you know of any example pics online?
Rich


Richard Polhill


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Yes, I certainly agree that the quality of these lenses is "Limited".
Considering Pentax's expressed claims that bokeh was a high priority
in their optical design, I can only conclude that Pentax have failed,
certainly in the case of the three focal lengths I tested (31mm, 43mm
and 77mm - all weird focal lengths too!).


Tony Polson


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

For the record, it's simply, "Limited". I don't think they're
referring to a limited quantity or produciton, but the quality of the
lens.
Mike


Mike Hamilton


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Peter (Bandicoot) has recommended some of the very best Pentax lenses.
They are of course well known among Pentax users, so it is not
surprising that people hold on to them. If you are patient, they will
eventually show on eBay.
When I decided which Pentax lenses I wanted, I set up an eBay search
and ran it daily until they appeared. I have since done the same with
Leica, and I managed to build my Leica outfit at what I consider to
have been excellent prices.
;-)


Tony Polson


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Not much of a selection on Ebay right now...KEH has some, but not the
ones you name. Any place else I should look?


Niceparking@gmail.com


Re: pentax and the best bokeh for the buck

Thank you for the excellent and most informative post.


Niceparking@gmail.com


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